Shalimar Guerlain perfume - a fragrance for women 1. O, Shalimar! One whiff of the 1. Baccarat Crystal designed by Raymond Guerlain and the original and truest scent from the formula by Jacques Guerlain at the Osmotheque in Versailles France was a time machine in itself and it brought me to..

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PARIS FRANCE April 1 to October 2. EXPOSITION DES ARTS DECORATIFS ET INDUSTRIE MODERNEBy all accounts, during the Roaring 2. World's Fair. Paris was in desperate need of tourism following World War I. A decline in tourism had occurred and times were tough just after the Spanish Flu outbreak. Paris had been the most beloved tourist destination during the Belle Epoque of the late 1. But after the Treaty of Versailles, and even with President Woodrow Wilson's visit, the city's economy experienced a decline, which would escalate during the Depression. Parisian economists & politicians acted quickly and the artists and architects of the period did as well and came up with a solution: The Exposition of Decorative Arts & Modern Industry.

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Once Paris opened it's doors to visitors from around the world during this Expo, Art Deco was born. The new architectural design of linear and geometrical shapes, simple and precise, was very different from the previous flowery designs of the art nouveau. Other bold new styles included Decorative Cubism, Italian Futurism and German Bauhaus. Works of art in these styles were also displayed.

The designs of architect Le Corbusier Charles Edouard Jeanneret Gris were displayed. All of Paris celebrated the commercial success of the Expo. Fashion shows of the latest work by haute couture designers were seen. At this time Coco Chanel was an established name as was Lanvin, who went on to create fragrances equally of lengthy fame as Shalimar - i. Chanel No. 5, No. Lanvin Arpege & My Sin. Luxury goods were sold.

The economy began to pick up energy. The Hôtel d'un Collectionneur was the most ambitious project by an individual designer and the most acclaimed display in the exhibition. It housed a suite of elegant rooms conceived by the leading French furniture maker (ébéniste) Jacques- Emile Ruhlmann. Rene Lalique, the famous jeweler and glass maker designed the main attractin of the Expo the immense fountain. Watch Breaking The Girls Full Movie. Pierre Patout designed the pavilion, with a vast oval room, the Grand Salon, as its focal point.

Ruhlmann brought together many leading artists and designers to decorate the Salon, including Jean Dunand, Jean Dupas, Antoine Bourdelle and Edgar Brandt. The perfume Shalimar by Jacques Guerlain was introduced for the first time and it became the favorite of the flappers: smoky incense, animalic musky civet scent, amber Oriental floral scents wafted through the expo buildings. If I could go back in time to the 2. Jacques Guerlain is said to have been in a playful mood when he formulated what became the most famous and grandest of the Oriental fragrances.

He added vanillin (chemical notes of vanilla or vanilla extract) into a bottle of Jicky, his first commercial success, and the result was Shalimar. But this is only one of theory. Another theory is that he was essentially copying the formula from Francois Coty EMERAUDE which was released 4 years prior in 1. There is no evidence of either theory although both Emeraude & Shalimar were conceived in the same year of 1. Coty released it in '2. Guerlain in '2. 5. Super Cyclone Full Movie Online Free.

Both fragrances share similar DNA and are the first truly famous and best selling Oriental perfumes. Shalimar, however, is by far the most beloved among vintage collectors & fragrance fans. Shalimar opens with acidic citrus notes, sharp, pungent, and medicinal.

There is plenty of lemon, bergamot orange & citruses of every kind replacing what could have been aldehyde content. This citrusy scent is present in every subsequent edition of Shalimar: the Parfum, Toilette, Cologne & it's modern flankers. The citruses come off as aggressive & masculine. It's more on the bitter side. Something about it smells like medicine poured into a bottle of perfume.

It's as if someone is dying (Mumtaz the wife of the Shah Jahan) and her beloved husband is attempting to revive her through the fragrance of citrus. Come back to me, Mumtaz, do not leave me to spend my remaining years alone", he would have said to her while pouring the citrus either into her mouth or as a vial under her nose. But Mumtaz passes away and she inspires in him a feeling of deep melancholia.

To honor her memory for all time he commissions the construction of the Taj Mahal in India. After the citrus medicine wears off the fragrance plunges into the exotic Hindi flowers. We are in the gardens of Shalimar, the Moghul Emperor's most exotic and beautiful gardens, outshining even the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Jasmine flowers abound and green bushes filled with white jasmines, heady and fragrant as day time and night blooming jasmines. There are rose bushes as well, but they are white roses. This is a bit of a light white floral scent, redolent with jasmine.

There is also iris, which might have seemed out of place in India but provides the garden with color. Deep purple, dark blue irises are to be seen as we stroll along the gardens. A vanilla scent is also coming from some of the vanilla flowers. How Mumtaz would have loved these flowers had she lived long enough to see how they were planted in her memory. The fragrance then turns into a funereal scent of incense, dark, smoky, incense in a funereal procession.

One reviewer in this page even went as far as to compare Shalimar's scent to a realistic citrus floral incense based scent used in Hindi rituals for the dead. That would make a lot of sense since this is a perfume meant to commemorate the death of Mumtaz, a great Empress of India. Incense dominated the original along with heavy and real secretion of civet and musk. By today's context this much incense & musk, myrrhs, opoponax, not to mention leather & aromatic weed- like patchouli, all of which are Oriental staple notes, comes off as "old lady" or Church perfume.

There is also a little bit of powder courtesy of iris/orris. And amber, oh what amber, spices, resins, along with fragrant sandalwood. In the milieu of the 1. Oriental fantasy and as escapist an Oriental perfume as you could possibly get. Reportedly it was the favorite fragrance of American flappers who had gone to the Exposition and brought back the perfume to the US.

Women were more liberated than they had ever previously been: they cut their hair short for the first time in the entire history of the world in a statement of liberation and independence and non- conformity. They were granted the right to vote in 1.

Constitution. They were more sexually liberal than they could have been in the 1. Coco Chanel had also helped these ladies show off the legs they worked on so hard to stay fit by showcasing them in the daring new skirt and little black dress fashions. Shalimar the perfume matched up with the fashion of the flappers, the smell of smoke coming from their long cigarette holders, their strands of black pearls & the feminism and rebellion of the times. But just because it is labeled a woman's fragrance does not mean that it is strictly a woman's perfume. Shalimar should be classified as a unisex fragrance. This is a man's cologne in the orignal formula and the Parfum as well as the extracts/concentrees. This is a bold smoky musky leathery sandalwood scent with patchouli and amber, notes which can be enjoyed as Orientals and men's cologne notes.

This perfume has a lot of history and appeal and will forever live on, because Mumtaz did not die, she lived through the Taj Mahal .. And through Shalimar SOUNDTRACK: Scheherazade by Rimsky Korsakov.

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